Food in Tetouan

Tetouan is the most Andalusian city in Morocco, and its cuisine reflects centuries of cultural exchange with Spain. When Moorish and Jewish families were expelled from the Iberian Peninsula in the 15th century, many settled in Tetouan, bringing with them sophisticated cooking techniques and flavour combinations that fused with existing Amazigh and Arab traditions. The result is a cuisine that is uniquely refined, with Spanish-Moroccan dishes that exist nowhere else.

The medina of Tetouan is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the best-preserved in Morocco. Its narrow streets are lined with bakeries, spice shops and small restaurants serving home-style cooking. The local pastilla tetouanaise uses fish instead of pigeon or chicken, filled with shrimp and spiced vermicelli -- a dish that speaks directly to the city's Mediterranean identity. Tetouan's sweets and pastries are famous throughout Morocco, influenced by Andalusian and Sephardic traditions.

Tetouan's proximity to the Mediterranean coast (the beach resort of Martil is just 10 kilometres away) gives it excellent access to fresh seafood, while the Rif Mountains behind the city supply fresh produce, herbs and olive oil.

Signature dishes of Tetouan

These are the dishes that define Tetouan's food identity -- the plates that locals are proud of and visitors should seek out.

Where to eat in Tetouan

Every city has its food neighbourhoods -- the streets, quarters and markets where locals eat and where you should too.

The cooking identity of Tetouan

Tetouani cuisine is the most Spanish-influenced in Morocco. Andalusian techniques -- from pastry-making to rice cookery -- blend seamlessly with Moroccan spicing and ingredients. The use of vermicelli in pastilla, the chickpea-flour calentita, and the fondness for rice dishes all trace back to the Iberian Peninsula. At the same time, the cuisine is firmly Moroccan in its use of ras el hanout, preserved lemons and fresh coriander. Tetouan's pastry tradition is considered the finest in the country, producing delicate Andalusian-influenced sweets that are sent as gifts throughout Morocco.

Market guide

The medina souk in Tetouan is one of the most authentic in northern Morocco. The spice section has excellent northern Moroccan blends. The bakery alleys sell fresh breads and pastries throughout the day. For seafood, the fish market at Martil beach has the morning's catch from the Mediterranean. Tetouan's pastry shops are legendary -- buy assorted halwa (pastries) as gifts.

Best time to visit for food

May to October for Mediterranean warmth. Spring (April-June) is ideal for pleasant temperatures and wildflowers in the Rif foothills.

Food tips for Tetouan

• Try calentita from a street vendor -- this chickpea-flour bread is a direct link to Spain and costs just a few dirhams.
• Order pastilla tetouanaise (fish pastilla) rather than the pigeon version found elsewhere -- it's Tetouan's signature.
• Buy pastries from the medina bakeries as gifts -- Tetouan sweets are prized throughout Morocco.
• Take the 15-minute drive to Martil for Mediterranean beach dining with fresh fish.