Best Fish at Tangier Port — Straight Off the Strait

Tangier's position at the mouth of the Strait of Gibraltar gives it a distinctive catch, drawing on both Atlantic and Mediterranean waters — sardines, anchovies, sea bream, sea bass, red mullet, swordfish, prawns and calamari all come through its port. The fishing harbour below the medina and the city's central market are where that catch is freshest, and the surrounding simple restaurants and grill stalls turn it into unfussy, excellent meals: whole fish grilled over charcoal, calamari fried in a light batter, and mixed fried plates (friture) served with bread, salad and lemon.

As in other Moroccan ports, the honest way to eat is to prioritise the busy, local-facing places near the harbour and market rather than the tourist restaurants, and to eat whatever came in that day. Tangier's Mediterranean side shows in the prominence of anchovies and sardines and in Spanish-influenced preparations — fried fish, calamares, and garlicky prawns that echo the Andalusian coast just across the water. Fish tagine with chermoula is the Moroccan-spiced alternative to the grill.

To eat well, confirm the per-kilo price before your fish is weighed if you are buying by weight, order a friture for variety and value, and do not overlook the humble grilled sardine, which is superb straight off the coals and costs next to nothing. Go at lunch when turnover is highest. Between two seas, Tangier's fish is some of the most interesting on the Moroccan coast.