Souk
Criée Berbère — the Carpet Auction Yard
Off a corner of Rahba Kedima, in the heart of the souks
Just off the spice square, the Criée Berbère is a small covered courtyard that was once the site of the medina's carpet — and, historically, slave — auctions. Today it's ringed with rug and textile dealers, and in the late afternoon a genuine carpet auction still sometimes rolls through, with runners parading rugs and traders calling bids.
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History and the auction
The Criée Berbère (the 'Berber auction') is a rare open courtyard in the tight weave of the souks. Its name records a hard history — this was an auction yard — and today it trades in the textiles the region is known for: knotted Berber pile rugs, flat-woven kilims, sequinned handira wedding blankets and boucherouite rag rugs.
If you're there in the late afternoon you may catch dealers moving through with rugs over their shoulders, calling prices in a fast, theatrical bidding that's a spectacle in itself, whether or not you buy.
Buying a rug without regret
Carpets are the deepest end of souk bargaining, with the biggest gap between the first and fair price. Take your time, be shown many rugs (tea will appear), and look at the back: hand-knotted rugs show the pattern clearly on the reverse and have slight irregularities, while machine-made ones are uniform and rubber-backed.
Because it's beside Rahba Kedima, you can pair a rug hunt with your spice shopping. Know that shipping can be arranged, but agree the full cost and terms in writing before you pay.
How to shop like a local
- Look at the back of every rug — hand-knotting shows through, wool feels different from synthetic, and natural dyes age unevenly.
- Ask what the rug is (region, wool or blend, age) and let the dealer show you several; the more you see, the better you judge value.
- Set a firm budget before the tea arrives; hospitality is genuine but also softens you up for the negotiation.
- If shipping, get the full delivered price, weight and timeline in writing, and pay by a traceable method where possible.
- Benchmark first: glance at rug prices at the fixed-price Ensemble Artisanal so you know roughly what's fair.
Bargaining etiquette
- Expect opening prices several times the settling price — counter well below and move up slowly.
- Walking away is the strongest tool; genuine dealers will call you back if your number is workable.
- Never start bargaining unless you're seriously interested — it's considered rude to negotiate hard and then leave over a small gap.
- Buying two pieces gives you real leverage for a bundled price.
What to avoid
- Don't believe 'antique' and 'pure vegetable dye' claims at face value; judge the rug in your hands, not the story.
- Avoid high-pressure closes and 'this price only for the next five minutes' — real deals don't expire.
- Don't pay large sums in cash for shipping without written terms and a receipt.
Frequently asked questions
What is the Criée Berbère?
It's the historic carpet-auction courtyard just off Rahba Kedima in the Marrakech souks, now surrounded by dealers in Berber rugs, kilims, handira blankets and vintage textiles. Real carpet auctions still sometimes take place there in the late afternoon.
How do I know if a Marrakech rug is handmade?
Turn it over. Hand-knotted rugs show the pattern clearly on the back with small irregularities and no rubber backing; the wool feels warm and slightly uneven. Machine-made rugs are perfectly uniform and often synthetic and rubber-backed.
How much should I bargain for a carpet?
Carpets carry the biggest mark-ups in the souk — opening prices are often several times the settling price. Counter well below, move up slowly, be willing to walk away, and only bargain hard if you genuinely intend to buy.
Keep exploring Marrakech food
Turn your market haul into dinner with a hands-on Marrakech cooking class, walk the souks with a guide on a market food tour, learn the Moroccan spices you just bought, or cook them at home with our Moroccan recipes. For the bigger picture, browse our food culture guides.